The lady from the Ghats

Heard of the word 'coincidence' ? I think that's how we meet people, that's how we cross paths with them and that's how we experience who they are. As I travelled to different corners of the world, I came to know various people and how their life had given them a new spark through which they have sneaked their heads out of their past to again smile at their future. I have a knack for mythology and spiritual places that shows how our culture has evolved till date and how these monuments and temples have been saying us their stories from ages. The different incarnations of Gods, origination of rivers, locations where Gods have set their feet and stories of those old spiritual cities. So, this time I met someone whose grey hair depicted her experience and her eyes depicted her love. She made me think that with the change of generation, somewhere we have lost touch with ourselves and with that place where we grew. 

She was a simple lady who grew near the Ghats.

I visited one of the most iconic places of our country and one of my favorite places, The spiritual capital of India, Varanasi. People call it with different names, some call it Banaras in their own accent and some call it Kashi- The abode of Lord Shiva. The city believed to be one of the oldest places in the country which dates back to 11th century BC. Hindu pilgrims flock in millions to bathe in the holy river of Ganga and also to perform funeral rights. People say, with a single dip in the river, they attain salvation or moksha as all their sins are washed away, just by polluting the holy river. Not only Hindus, but the city holds importance for Buddhists also as Lord Buddha founded Buddhism at Sarnath which is very near to Kashi. The city is blessed with 88 Ghats and each one has its own importance. I loved the small streets of and the fragrance of the place which will be my home for next few days. I dumped My heavy bag pack after a 3 hour long journey from Allahabad. But, the city will not let you get tired as it is always filled with people and food in each and every street. Sun was about to set and fading orange sky in the backdrop of a small temple looked more beautiful. I quickly washed my face and got myself ready to explore at least some of the shops and places nearby. My hungry stomach wanted to eat something and I could see millions of delicacies all around. Rather than confusing myself, I jumped into a small shop which was selling hot kachoris and a glass of lassi. In the background, I could hear the faint sound of bells ringing with shlokas being chanted in unison. Seeing my clueless face, the shopkeeper told me ,"Bhaiya idhar se seedha aage chale jayiye. Ganga maiya ki aarti ka waqt hai, dekhkar bahut hi accha lagega aapko (Brother, go staright from here, it's the aarti time of Goddess Ganga, you will fell nice after seeing that)" I walked straight in that direction for about 2 kms to see the ecstatic view of such a beautiful way of worshipping the river goddess who has kept this city united from ages. People reciting shlokas together, claps and bells being played all over the place, big fire lamps being lighted and wherever my eyes went, I could see each and every person praying to the divine river. 

As the aarti went on, I could see a lady sitting at a higher pavement, resting her head to the crack wall, eyes closed and reciting the shlokas. The nearby shopkeepers whoever came to be a part of the aarti would bow a bit with a formal namaste in front of her or touch her foot as a mark of respect. It seemed as she was an important figure for them and they really respected her. After the aarti ended, she got down from the pavement and started walking away slowly. A lady in mid 70's, grey hair , draped in sky blue saree, it looked as she had grown old with the city walking together with it. After a short walk, the small road got widened up and the shops were distributed in line above a large building which looked like an old residential house. She went near a fruit lorry in front of the shops to attend her waiting customers. It seemed she was very familiar with whatever going on around: the hot air coming from the nearby corn seller shop, the clanging of utensils being washed from the chat seller shop, the shouting of the eateries and stalls to lure the customers, all seemed a part of her life. I went near her lorry and stood there for a moment to  look closely at her. She looked up and asked in a very polite and soft voice,"Kya chahiye sahab? (Sir,what do you need?)". I picked up a guava and asked ,"Ye kitne ka hai? (How much is it for?)". "50 ke 4 de dungi sahab aapko, 100 ke loge to 10 de doongi. (I will give 4 for 50 and 10 for 100)", she said those mugged up lines. I told her."Thik hai 50 ke de do (Okay give me for 50)". She packed them and gave it to me. As I was about to go, I asked her "I am new to this place, I need a tourist to see this beautiful city, do you know anyone ?". She looked up and told. "Sahab, My son is actually a guide but he is out of town for some work, but if you don't mind I will show you the whole city." I looked at her in a puzzled way that how an old lady can be so active and azile to take up this work. I asked, "Aap iss umar main kaise? (How will you do at this age?)"

She smiled at me and said, "I was born on the year of independence. So, I and the free city of Banaras are of same age. No one else could show you the city better than me." I looked at that glazing face which had another level of dedication and happiness. I agreed by nodding my head and told her that I will come at this very place by 10 am in the morning. I took my guavas and walked towards my hotel looking at those small markets and shops that are lit up as the face of that fruit selling lady. She didn't had a single sorrow in her face for what sort of work she was doing. She was happy and content. 

The next day I got ready and reached at her stall by 10 am. She had already opened her stall and was actively doing her business with her morning customers. Seeing me, she called a teenager and told her to manage the stall for today. She walked along with me to the same place where the Ganga Aarti happened last night. She stood near the banks of the holy Ganges and looked at me. "Sahab ise Dashashwamedh Ghat kehte hain aur peeche dekhiye ye Kashi Vishwanath mandir hai......(Sahab this place is known as Dashashwamedh ghat and just look back, that is Kashi Vishwanath temple....)." and she kept on explaining the importance of the ghat and how Lord Brahma had sacrificed 10 horses in the holy fire of Ashwamedh yagna. She took me inside the Kashi vishwanath temple and even the priest smiled seeing her. They talked for a while as I worshipped there. I kept on thinking one thing that how everyone knows her here at each and every place, she being just a mere fruit seller. I ditched my thought and went ahead with her to see other places. She has her own contacts of rikshawallas to take us to different places and even with the chaiwalas who would offer us free matka chai at some or the other place. 

She noticed my questioning eyes while we were walking at the Assi Ghat. She was explaining me the importance and how it is the confluence of Ganges and the dried river Asi when I asked her suddenly, "I noticed everyone touching your feet at the aarti that day and even everywhere people know you starting from the priest to the Tea vendors. I know it has nothing to do with me but you being just a fruit seller how does everyone know you?". She kept looking at the river and the steps of the ghat and told,"Agar kal aapko manzoor ho, toh main aapko ek jagah dikhaungi, chaloge ? (Tomorrow if you agree , I will show you a place , will you come ?)". I agreed completely by nodding my head and we sat in the rikshaw to come back to our starting point where we began our journey in the morning.

In the morning again, I reached near her stall and as usual we started to walk. But, this time she went towards those shops in front of which her stall was there. Standing there, she looked up and pointed towards the building, "That is my house, my own house but I can't stay there anymore". As I looked up, it looked like a small mansion with so many windows and art and crafts spread all over the walls. "I was married when I was 20 and my husband was a big merchant. He owned all these areas till the end of this road, but fate had its own role to play. He died at a young age due to heart attack and his second brother took over the place. Me and my 2 year old son were thrown out and these people of streets, these shopkeepers , that priest in the temple and those riskshawallas gave me food and shelter". She called the rickshaw and we went to Manikarnika Ghat. Pointing to a heap of pyres, she said, "Here, I told my last goodbye to my love and sat right here in this ghat till he left for his heavenly abode. I collected his ash on my own and my son consecrated it to Ganga maiya here. From that day, I promised not to look at that house and started working on my own to feed my son at least. From last 35 years, I stand in front of that house to make myself strong and remind me about my past so that I can shape my future". I stood dumbfounded that what all she has gone through till now. I gathered my voice hold her hand as we came back. "You know there is a term called independent woman which is told to all the ladies who work and live on their own. I think I have seen the real one today", I said as we sat in the rickshaw. 

For the next 2 days, she showed me many places as we walked slowly and steadily across whole of Kashi. We went to Sarnath, Ramnagar fort, Jantar Mantar, Durgakund Temple and what not. I couldn't have got a better guide than her who could have shown me each and every corner of the city. We watched the Ganga Aarti together again and it was such a bliss to see that eternal occasion with her. We went to the shops after that and had some good delicacies which activated my taste buds. Ranging from samosa chat to rabdi, she made me taste everything. I was about to leave next morning from this beautiful city and my guide was sad and upset. We came back from the ghat after the aarti and she gave me a bag full of guavas for my journey. "Take this as a token of happiness from my side. Meri yaad aayegi tumhe ghar jaate waqt (You will miss me in the whole journey)". As I was about to go , I turned back again for one last time ,"Aap alag ho inn sab se. Ganga Maiya aur ye saare ghat aapko paakar khush hain. Inhe humesha khush rakhna. ( You are different from everyone. Goddess Ganga and these ghats are happy to have you. Keep them happy every time)". She smiled as I said her these lines. "By the way in all these days, I didn't ask your name. What is your good name ?", I asked. "Log jinko pujne yahan aate hain, main unka hi ek hissa hoon. Woh bhi Ganga hai, main bhi Ganga hoon. (For whom people come here to worship, I am a part of her. She is Ganga, even I am Ganga)".

I picked up my bag again to go back to my place again. Soon, I will be travelling again to another place where I might meet another Ganga who will teach me that,

"It's never late to start again. Life might go down a bit at some point of time but we can bring it back. After all it's our life."